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JULY 22, 2008   

Lauterbrunnen to the Mountain Hostel

View of falls from hotel dining room The view from the breakfast room at the Hotel Staubbach is gorgeous, dominated by the falls that are the city's trademark.

Our third-floor attic room with toilet across the hall wasn't my first choice, but was the only one available. We still enjoyed our stay.

As many others have commented, the hotel staff is very friendly and the hotel is a good value for the money. Its location near the edge of town is pleasant, out of the heavy tourist traffic zone.

Croissant, bread, red and orange egg, cheese, salamiBreakfast wasn't fancy, but was just fine: your basic meat, cheese, bread and of course müesli and yogurt. The colorful dyed egg indicates that it's hard-boiled.


Sundial made with several cable and a scale painted on an exterior wall of the churchAfter breakfast we walked a short distance to the falls that dominate the view everywhere in Lauterbrunnen. We followed the fairly steep path that led to a rocky grotto behind the falls, about halfway up. As we got closer to the falls the path changed to a metal catwalk. The air got cooler and spray from the falls got us wet, but it was great fun to be there.


Sundial made with several cable and a scale painted on an exterior wall of the churchThe sundial on the wall of Lauterbrunnen's church was both unusual and accurate.


Porch of the Mountain Hostel looking toward mountainsThe Mountain Hostel in Gimmelwald is in a great location, with breathtaking views of the mountains. The folks who stay there are overwhelmingly both young and friendly, making it a great place to hang out, drink beer, and enjoy conversations and card-playing.

Unfortunately the conversations and card-playing continued well past the posted midnight "Quiet Time," making sleep difficult, especially when our room was right above the pool table.

View of low-ceiling attic room at Mountain HostelPlanning the trip, I was overjoyed to be able to book two nights in the hostel's only single room, the "honeymoon suite." I didn't know that it was an attic room reached by climbing a steep ladder next to the pool table.

When the noise kept us up until 2 a.m., maybe later, I was less enthused. When the drunk climbed the ladder and stuck his head in while we were trying to sleep, I'd had enough.

In the morning Joanne & I needed no discussion to agree to forfeit our fifty Swiss francs (about $50) and leave a day early. I was disappointed when I mentioned our unhappiness to Petra, the hostel's co-owner, that she didn't offer to refund our money. Call me silly, but when the rules say that things quiet down at midnight, it seems that someone should make an effort to see that it happens. Apparently no hostel staff are present late at night to enforce the rules.

Still and all, the hostel may be a great place for you if you want to socialize more than sleep. It helps if you're under 30, although a 53-year old ex-advertising exec we met earlier was one of the the rowdy card-playing nighthawks that kept us awake. We decided to head for Mürren, a 30-minute walk away, and look for a room where we might actually get a good night's sleep.

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